Photo found of Flickr, courtesy of Cygnyus921.

Crape myrtles are shrubs or small trees with big showy clusters of long-lasting flowers. Native to China and Korea, these popular plants are strong growers in the U.S. in zones 6 through 9, living as far north as protected spots in Massachusetts.

Colors range from white to dark red, including shades such as pink, lavender, magenta, orchid, and purple. Crape myrtles (also spelled “crepe myrtle” or “crapemyrtle”) play many roles in the landscape, including street tree, hedge, shrub, and specimen.

The attractive plants range in size from 18-inch dwarfs to 40-feet upright or spreading trees.

How to Prune Crape Myrtles

Despite the all-too-common practice of heavy topping crape myrtles, the plants usually look and perform better with just light pruning. Since pruning encourages new growth, pruning in late summer or early fall will result in tender shoots just in time to be nipped by cold weather.

If you prune too late in the spring you will remove the flowering stems and the plant won’t bloom. That’s why late winter or early spring it the ideal time to prune crape myrtles; they produce vigorous shoots at just the right time.

For routine, light pruning remove branches that are crossing or rubbing as well as any dead or broken branches. Crape myrtles produce an abundance of suckers, which should also be removed.

Many gardeners grow crape myrtles as compact shrubs. To achieve this cut the stems back to six inches above ground level every year before growth starts in the spring. Annual removal of twigs with diameters less than a pencil will create a medium-size bush.

To grow a crape myrtle as an upright tree, start by removing all but three-to-five strong, well-spaced limbs that are growing from ground level. As the plant matures, remove the lower lateral branches, limbing up about one-half of the way up the stems.

As with routine pruning, remove rubbing and crossing branches. Also remove suckers and shoots that grow in the center. Continue to remove suckers and lower branches as the tree grows.

While it is not necessary to remove spent flowers, on some varieties doing so may yield a second or even third flush of blooms. If you do deadhead, make the cuts just above lateral branches.

Crape Myrtle Pruning Tips

When making pruning cuts, cut to side branches or to just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk).

Always keep pruning shears sharp and clean. Cleaning shears with alcohol between plants helps prevent transmission of diseases from plant to plant.

Want to Learn More About Crape Myrtles?

If you select the variety of crape myrtle with the growth habit and size you want you’ll have less pruning to do. This site has pictures and information to help you choose.

Here’s some great info on the Characteristics of Crape Myrtle Varieties.

These sites have everything you need to know to grow crape myrtle:

Crapemyrtle via the Clemson Cooperative Extension.

Read all about Crape Myrtle Culture from The University of Georgia Cooperative Extension.

Photo found on Flickr, courtesy of Swami Stream.

Oleander is a shrub or small tree that blooms in summer with large, striking flowers in shades of red, white, light yellow, and pink. Because of its dense branching and rapid growth rate it is a popular hedge. Planting an oleander hedge is an excellent way to hide utilities, chain link fences, and other eyesores in the landscape. It also makes an attractive specimen plant if planted singly or in a garden border.

While it can reach twenty feet, oleander takes well to pruning and is typically kept at six to ten feet. Tolerant of dry soils and hot sun, oleander is an excellent plant for the desert, but can thrive in warm, humid climates as well.

Growing Requirements for Oleander

For the best flowering, plant oleanders in full sun, but in very hot climates they bloom more reliably in light shade. Oleanders tolerate a range of soil conditions, from dry sandy soils to moist clay soils. They grow best where the weather stays above freezing, although they can tolerate short periods of below-freezing temperatures.

Depending on how the plants are to be used and the size of the cultivar, the ideal planting distance ranges from five to ten feet. In the right climate oleander is easy to grow and requires no special care beyond annual pruning and feeding.

Pruning Oleander

Prune after flowering to stimulate new branches, control size and shape, avoid leggy growth, and encourage next year’s flower buds. Remove suckers, which can interfere with flowering, and dead branches.

Oleander Propagation

Propagate oleanders by taking cuttings of healthy, young stems in summer and rooting them in a mix of sand and peat.

Oleander Pests and Diseases

Oleanders generally have no serious insect or disease problems. In humid climates aphids and scale insects may be a problem. Caterpillars can strip oleander leaves in just a few days.

Oleander Toxicity

All parts of oleander are poisonous. They contain a toxic chemical that can cause illness, skin irritation, or even death if eaten in enough quantity. Fortunately the plant has an acrid taste that causes a gagging reaction in most people that causes them to throw up. Burning oleander also causes toxicity, so it should never be put in a burn pile, nor should it be used as a stake for roasting food over a fire.

Wearing gloves while working with oleander may prevent allergic skin reactions. Because of its toxicity, oleander is not recommended for playgrounds or other places children play.

Want to Learn More About Oleander?

Learn more about the history, folklore, and culture of oleander at these sites:

Lean all about Oleander from the International Oleander Society.

This site has great information about the Nerium Oleander.

Here’s a .pdf file about Nerium Oleander.

Sequim, Washington is the self-proclaimed Lavender Capitol of North America. Its mild, dry climate makes it the perfect spot to grow hundreds of varieties of this fragrant and colorful perennial. Small growers are taking advantage of the upsurge in popularity of lavender to establish successful market gardens.

Planting and Growing Lavender

Lavender grows best in well-drained sandy loam, but it can grow in less fertile gravelly ground. Your plants need excellent drainage in order avoid root rot. You will, however, need to water young plants at least until they establish themselves

Except in cold climates (where spring planting is better), it’s best to plant lavender in the fall, which gives the plants time to establish good root systems before the hot summer. The spacing between plants depends on the varieties and how the crop will be used–typically from one to three feet apart.

Lavender is not a heavy feeder, so it may not require any more nutrients than a good soil will provide. The only way to know for sure if extra nutrients are needed, particularly nitrogen, is to do a soil test. Too much fertilizer will reduce both the yield and quality of the crop.

Mulching helps control weeds, but if it’s too deep it could keep the soil too wet and promote root rot. Sequim growers use oyster shells, which control weeds and reflect light up to the plants, encouraging growth.

Lavender plants need pruning, starting soon after they are planted. Remove the flower stems and topmost buds for the first year or two after planting. After that, cut back about one-third of the gray leaf stems every year after flowering. Use clean and sharp cutting tools to help prevent the spread of disease.

Lavender Pests and Diseases

Spread by aphids, Alfalfa Mosaic Virus (AMV) is a common lavender disease. It won’t kill the plants, but it will reduce yields. Bright yellow patches appear on leaves and shoots, which may become twisted. The best way to limit AMV is to remove infested plants and burn them immediately.

As mentioned earlier, root rot can damage lavender grown in wet soils. Planting in well-drained soils is the best way to prevent root rot.

Harvesting Lavender

Start harvesting lavender when the flowers become vivid in color. Harvest early in the morning after the dew has dried. Harvested lavender has many uses; you can make fresh or dried arrangements or wreaths, or process it to use in soaps, candles, and cosmetics.

Lavender Propagation

Propagation by cuttings results in uniform plants, and is the most common commercial method.

Want to Learn More About Lavender?

Lavender is such a delightful and useful plant, there’s a lot more to say about it. Here are three interesting websites you might enjoy.

Colorado State has great information about Growing Lavender in Containers.

Don’t forget to check the Sequim Lavender Growers Association.

Here’s a great .pdf file all about Growing and Marketing Lavender.

Photo found on Flickr, courtesy of rochelle, et. al.

Snapdragons get their name from the shape of the flowers, which children love to squeeze to make the “dragon” open and close its mouth. These colorful annuals come in just about every shade and combination of pink, red, and yellow you can imagine. The mainstay of old-fashioned flower gardens, they play just as important a role in today’s modern gardens.

Planting and Care for Snapdragons

Snapdragons are easy to grown. You will have success if you grown them in well-drained garden soil. In most locations snapdragons need full sun, but because they stop flowering when it gets too hot, they prefer partial shade in hot, sunny climates.

Snapdragons are not heavy feeders, so if you add compost to the soil that might be all the food they need to grow strong and bloom profusely.

You can either sow snapdragon seeds indoors ten weeks before the last frost date or buy transplants. (In Southern California and similarly hot places gardeners sow their snapdragon seeds in fall or winter for spring blooming.) Plant seedlings of small varieties six to eight inches apart; taller types need twelve inches between plants.

Spacing depends on the ultimate size of your snapdragons, which can be anywhere from eight inches to four feet tall.

Water regularly if there’s not enough rain, and remove any weeds. Mulching will help conserve water and keep the weeds down. If you remove spent flowers your plants will keep blooming until the weather gets too hot. When the plants stop producing flowers cut the stems down to about five inches from the ground. Water well, and you are likely to get another flush of flowers before frost kills the plants.

Snapdragon Pests and Diseases

Snapdragons are vulnerable to a number of fungal diseases. Good air circulation in the garden, avoiding overhead watering, and keeping the garden area clean will help avoid these problems.

Landscape Uses and Snapdragons

Small snapdragons are delightful bedding plants, mixing well with other annuals in the flower garden. Tall varieties are excellent in flower arrangements, along a fence, and planted in the back of a border. You may need to stake the tall, old-fashioned varieties.

Snapdragon Propagation

Some gardeners let their snapdragons go to seed and collect the seeds. The best way to ensure you get the snaps you want, however, is to buy transplants or seeds from a reputable source.

Want to Learn More About Snapdragons?

Learn more about this wonderful garden flower at these sites.

Snapdragons Galore has got plenty of photos of snapdragons.

Learn all about How to Take Care of Snapdragons.

Here’s a great .pdf file all about Snapdragons.

Everyone needs to know about Greenhouse Production of Bedding Plant Snapdragons.

Edible Flowers

Flowers have been used in cooking for centuries and have become increasingly popular in recent years, especially in haute cuisine. Edible flowers are visually interesting and unique additions to dishes; they add diverse flavor, texture and color.

Edible flowers can be used fresh in salads, soups or as a garnish; they can also be used in stuffing, stir-fry, added to drinks, frozen in ice cubes, used in jams, jellies, and desserts. The options for use in cooking are limited only by your imagination. Combining your passion for gardening and cooking can be a very enjoyable and rewarding activity– and you don’t have to be a world-class chef to reap the benefits!

A word of caution in regards to flowers

Of course, not all flowers are edible; some taste terrible but, more importantly, some are poisonous. Before you experiment with using flowers in cooking, you must be certain they are safe for consumption. There are reliable reference books you can consult (see resources at end) to ensure you are consuming flowers that are safe to eat.

It is also a good idea to have a reliable source for those flowers and plants that are poisonous.

You should not eat flowers that have been purchased from a garden center, flower shop or nursery because they have usually been sprayed with chemicals. Think twice before eating roadside flowers because they have probably been exposed to exhaust fumes and animal waste.

When we talk about edible flowers, usually it is the petals we are referring to; everything else is typically discarded, including the stem, stamen, pistols, and sepals. Most edible flowers should be eaten in moderation; some can have un-pleasurable side effects (such as abdominal distress) if eaten in excess.

The taste of edible flowers will vary depending on the time of the year, the region, and the soil they are grown in. Once you have decided to grow edible flowers, you have a long list of plants to experiment with.

Growing and caring for edible flowers is as individual and specific as the flowers you are planting; they each have their own cultural and growing requirements. Most edible flowers produce vibrant blooms and require full sun, well-drained soil and a fertile environment with frequent watering.

Consult the care guide upon purchasing for specific plant information. When growing flowers for consumption, do not spray with any harmful chemicals including pesticides, insecticides or fungicides. It is important to garden organically when growing an edible flower garden.

Popular edible flowers

* Pansy is one of the more well-known edible flowers that are often used in appetizers, on top of dips, cheeses, pastries and desserts such as cake. The entire flower petal can be consumed, including the sepals.

* Roses have a perfumed flavor and look beautiful and sophisticated on many types of dishes, especially desserts. Cut off the bitter white part of the flower petal prior to consumption.

* Sweet woodruff has a combination of nutty, sweet and vanilla flavor. Consume this flower in moderation.

* Violet has a sweet, perfume-type flavor. Good used candied or fresh.

* Tulip has a vegetative flavor and are good stuffed.

* Bee balm: has a minty, sweet and hot flavor. A unique addition to many culinary dishes.

* Bachelor’s button (also called Cornflower) has a slightly sweet to spicy, clove-like flavor. Their blooms are a natural food dye. These are frequently used as a garnish.

* Chrysanthemum flowers have a tangy, slightly bitter taste. Colors come in red, white, yellow and orange. They range in taste from faint peppery to mild cauliflower. They should be blanched first and then scatter the petals on a salad. The leaves can also be used to flavor vinegar. Always remove the bitter flower base and use petals only. Young leaves and stems of the Crown Daisy, also known as Chop Suey Greens or Shinjuku in Japan, are widely used in oriental stir-fries and as salad seasoning [1.1].

* Calendula, also called Marigold, is a wonderful edible flower. Flavors range from spicy to bitter, tangy to peppery. Their sharp taste resembles saffron (also known as Poor Man’s Saffron). Calendula has pretty petals in golden-orange hues. Sprinkle them on soups, pasta or rice dishes, herb butters, and salads. Petals add a yellow tint to soups, spreads, and scrambled eggs [1,2]

Harvesting flowers for consumption is easy; simply snip the flower/s off the plant, shake to remove any dirt or insects and discard the portions you are not eating, such as the stamen, pistol, the stem and sepals. Flowers should be washed prior to consumption.

You can place them under a stream of water or use a strainer. Place them on a paper towel for drying. For best flavor, use the flowers right away. If you are not using them right away, place them in an airtight container or plastic bag with a moist (not wet) paper towel and put in the refrigerator; they will keep for up to ten days stored this way.

Cut Flowers

Annuals, herbaceous perennials, woody plants and bulbs can all be used as cut flowers. Annuals complete their life cycle in one growing season. Herbaceous perennials and bulbs are those that usually die back to the ground at the end of the growing season and resume growth in the spring. Most hardy, woody plants survive the winter season in the dormant state but do not die back to the ground like herbaceous perennials.

A Bit of Planning

When planning to grow flowers for cutting you may want to consider a dedicated area just for your cutting garden; flowers will be easier to access, care for, and harvest if located in one common area. Like a vegetable garden, consider easy access when planning the site; close to a water source and your home will make taking care of them more convenient and less likely to be neglected.

Annuals

Growing annuals for cut flowers has the advantages of quick maturity (you will be able to grow, cut and enjoy within weeks) a large variety to choose from with many bold colors, sizes and shapes. Another benefit to growing annuals is that they typically have a longer blooming season than perennials; with proper care many will stay in bloom all season long.

Annual plants are usually less expensive than perennials short-term, but because they only last one season and need to be replanted each spring, they become more expensive long-term. Annuals can be grown from seed indoors (this will keep the cost down) and transplanted to the garden, sown directly into the garden after the last frost, or transplanted from seedlings. All methods can be equally successful.

Most annuals require full sun (6-8 hours a day) and well-drained, fertile soil. Often shade flowers have less showy blooms but can make nice subtle additions and greenery to arrangements.

There are hundreds of annuals to grow for cut flowers, but these are some of the more popular, versatile, and easy-to-grow:

Snapdragons come in a variety of colors and are a garden favorite. Be sure to select the taller variety for cutting. They are ready to cut in early summer. Harvest them when about half of the flowers are open and the rest are buds. They will last about 6-7 days after being cut.

Sunflowers come in both larger and smaller types. The smaller variety work best for cutting and come in many unexpected colors. Grow in full sun and well-drained soil. Harvest as soon as the blooms open. Cut the bottom of the stem in water to increase longevity.

Bachelor’s button is one of the most popular cut flowers (sometimes called cornflower) to grow. You can easily start from seed in the spring. It is an annual but if left to “go t o seed” you will get new plants each spring.

You may need to control how many you let go to seed to control the growth. Bachelors button is primarily a blue colored flower, but you will also get some pink and white that pop up. This is also a popular edible flower.

Stock has a wonderful sweet and spicy fragrance. Stock flowers have long stems (about two to two and a half feet) with a multitude of flowers that bloom vertically on the stem. It also comes in a dwarf variety.

You can find stock in many colors including snow white, red, purple, pink, lavender, yellow and crimson. Stock prefers full sun, well-drained rich soil and cooler weather. If you live in a warm climate, try growing stock in the winter or very early spring. You can sow seeds directly into your garden or start earlier indoors and transplant after the last frost.

Zinnias are very easy to grow flowers that come in a huge variety of colors. Plant in full sun and well-drained soil. If soil conditions become too dry, zinnias will wilt. You can plant directly by seed into the garden in the spring or buy seedlings and transplant after danger of frost is gone. Thin to about 6-12 inches apart if growing from seed. Harvest the blooms often to promote new growth.

Always place cut flowers in water immediately after harvesting. Using a preservative is an individual preference.

Perennials

Perennials generally cost more to purchase up front, but do not need to be planted each year, which keeps costs down over the long-term. New plants can be propagated from old ones during division, which also cuts down on the cost of growing perennials for cut flowers.

Perennials do have a shorter bloom period than most annuals, which is one disadvantage. Most perennials will be planted directly into the garden in the spring, although you can also start from seed and transplant.

Like annuals, perennials that have showy flowers usually require full sun and well-drained fertile soil. There are many shade-loving perennials that have less showy flowers or are used as filler in bouquets (ferns, Hosta leaves, goats beard).

Common perennials for a cutting garden

Delphiniums (also called larkspur) are garden classics that come in beautiful shades of blue, purple white and mixtures. These are a classic “cottage flower”. They grow as tall spikes that can range from six to eight feet (they do come in smaller dwarf varieties) and usually need to be staked to prevent damage from the winds.

They display bold upright flowers atop green foliage. Grow delphiniums in full sun (at least 6 hours), well-drained, organically rich soil and keep well watered. Space them about three feet apart. They prefer cooler temperatures and begin blooming in late spring. Thin the flowers in the fall for renewed growth the next spring. You can harvest the flowers at any point and at any length desired.

Baby’s Breath (also called Gypsophilia) is a mainstay as a cut flower; it is often used as a filler flower with roses or other brightly colored blooms. They are also wonderful to use as dried flower. Baby’s breath grows as airy sprays of tiny white blooms atop small green-blue leaves. There is also a variety that has pale pink flowers. Baby’s breath blooms in June and July.

Baby’s Breath requires full sun and well-drained, humus-rich soil. They will need to be kept well watered. Tall plants will do well with staking. You can start from seed or seedlings that can be transplanted to the garden after the last frost. Harvest at any time the flowers are in bloom. Cutting often encourages new growth.

Garden Phlox have a mass of tiny blossoms that grow closely together to form a dense cluster. Some plants have individual blossoms that are found in a star pattern. Most Phlox grows in an upright manner but there are some that grow more horizontal. Phlox comes in a myriad of colors both solid and bi-colored and has a very sweet fragrance that is enjoyed in cut flower arrangements in the home.

Phlox can be grown from seed started indoors (this can be tricky), sown directly in the ground or transplanted from seedlings. Garden phlox prefers full sun but will tolerate part-shade. The soil should be moist, well drained and organically rich.

You can harvest the flowers at any time after they bloom. They will often re-bloom soon after.

Pin cushion flower, also known as Scabiosa, is a perennial that has flowers that look like miniature pincushions with pointed petals. It will grow between 12 inches to nearly three feet depending on the variety. There are pink, blue/violet and white blossoms. It is perfect to use as a cut flower because it blooms all season long. Plant pincushion in full sun and very well drained soil. Compost can be added to compact soils.

You can start the seeds indoors about ten weeks prior to planting in the garden. If you decide to direct sow in the garden, the germination period will be very long. You can also plant seedlings directly into the garden after all signs of frost are gone in the spring. You can harvest the flowers any time they are in bloom. The flowers will continue to bloom all season long if harvesting (or deadheading) is performed.

Purple Coneflower, also known as Echinacea, is a very hardy drought-tolerant perennial that is native to the United States. Flowers are a light purple/pink color with centers that are a combination of orange, red and black. The flowers grow on individual sturdy upright stems that grow to an average of two to three feet.

Purple coneflower prefers full sun and well-drained soil. They will tolerate dry conditions. Their blooms are long lasting, often from June until October. As a cut flower, purple coneflowers will last between 7-10 days. There are newer varieties of coneflower that come in shades of yellow and sunset orange. Once established, you can cut the flowers at any time and they will continue to grow profusely.

Bulbs

Bulbs and bulb-type flowers include bulbs, corms, tubers, and rhizomes. These types of plants do not usually branch excessively and can be planted more closely together, giving you more plants per square footage than other flowers. This means more flowers or cutting. Bulbous plants come in some very unique flower forms that you cannot find in other types of plants.

If you use bulbs as cutting flowers, you should expect to re-plant every year which is different than in a traditional garden setting where they would be left in the same spot for more than a year.

Some disadvantages in growing bulbous plants are having to plant each season, higher cost than seed, and more intensive clean-up in the fall. All of the flowers listed below should last for at least a week in a cut flower arrangement.

Here are some common bulbous plants to try for cutting:

Alliums are flowering/ornamental onions that come in a variety of colors and sizes and begin blooming in the spring. The flowers are usually ball shaped (but do come in other shapes such as stars) and the stems straight tubes. These make a unique, fun statement in arrangements. The dried flowers can also be used in arrangements.

Gladioli are summer blooming flowers that come in a large array of colors. The flowers grow and bloom vertically along tall strong stems. Gladiolus is a cut flower favorite.

Lilies (hybrid) come as oriental or Asiatic varieties. The oriental varieties have large flowers (six inches) with an intense fragrance and colors of white, purple, pink or red. Asiatic varieties are smaller (around three inches) with no fragrance and come in bright colors of orange, red, gold, yellow, rose and pink. These make wonderfully attractive flower arrangements.

Daffodils are a very easy to grow bulb. Daffodils emerge in the early spring and can stay in bloom from weeks to months, depending on the area you live in. Traditional colors are a cheery yellow, white and white with yellow centers.

Tulips come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes, strong petals that last well inside. Tulips are an early and late spring blooming flower, depending on the variety.

Crocuses are one of the earliest blooming bulbs; they often emerge right through the snow in late winter. Common colors are purple, white and yellow. Use in a shorter cut flower arrangement.

Irises are found in many colors including bi-colors. The flower blooms off of tall upright stems that are perfect for vase arrangements. These are a classic cut flower.

Calla Lilly is a very sophisticated flower with a beautiful fragrance. Traditionally found in solid white, but does come in other colors including near black. These can stand alone in an arrangement or mix well with many other flowers.

Double duty, or Companion planting

If you choose to grow cut flowers you can also utilize them in ways that perform double-duty in your garden. This mutual benefit is sometimes called companion planting. Some flowers, like herbs, deter a variety of garden pests. Marigolds have a long history of being used to keep pests away due to their strong odor; plant them in your cutting garden and throughout other areas.

Chrysanthemums are another wonderful choice to use as a cut flower and to deter pests. They come in a variety of vibrant colors, and help to repel nematodes, Japanese beetles and moths.

Of course, just as flowers can deter pests, they can attract beneficial insects to your garden, such as bees and ladybugs. Try these flowers not only for cutting, but also for attracting beneficial “bugs” to your garden:

* Columbine

* Common yarrow

* Speedwell

* English lavender

* Marigold (attracts bees and butterflies)

* Zinnias

You can find both annuals and perennials that you can plant in your cutting garden that deter pests and help to minimize the use of pesticides as well as attracting the beneficial insects that help keep your garden healthy and vibrant.

Additional Resources

This huge list of edible flowers will be sure to help clear a few things up for you.

Purdue features a list of common poisonous flowers and other plants.

If you’re looking for recipie ideas for edible flowers, Allegheny County has got you covered.

Photo found on Flickr, courtesy of aussiegall.

Sweet Williams, which stand out because of the frilly edges on the blooms, are a nice addition to flowerbeds. Their colorful white, pink, red and purple blooms make them a popular choice for flowerbeds, borders and window boxes. The spicy fragrance of the flowers makes them ideal for cut flower arrangements.

Sweet Williams, also known as dianthus barbatus, are rather unusual in that they grow as annuals in climates with cooler temperatures and perennials in warmer climates. The bad news is that they are relatively short-lived (even as perennials). The good news is that the plants often reseed themselves, eliminating the need to buy new ones for planting. Just leave the dried blooms in place.

Sweet William is considered a biennial flower, which means that the plant will begin to bloom during its second year of growth. Expect only leaves during the first year.

Sweet William plants can be found in dwarf forms that grow six to eight inches in height. Full-sized plants grow 12 to 18 inches in height.

Sweet William plants, which look very similar to carnations, can be grown from seeds, cuttings or plant divisions. If planting seeds, plan on starting them indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost for spring blooms. The young seedlings generally transplant well and can be set outdoors after the last frost.

Seeds can also be sown directly in the flower garden early in the season. Cover the seeds with one-eighth inch of soil and water thoroughly, but do not over water.

If planting Sweet William plants, place them about four to six inches apart. They do tolerate some crowding.

Sweet Williams prefer full sun, but will tolerate light shade. The soil should be rich with nutrients. It is best if the soil is loose and well drained. Maintain the soil so that is it moist to slightly dry.

Seeds and plants benefit from an initial application of a general all-purpose fertilizer at planting time. Plants can be fertilized on a monthly basis throughout the growing season.

Nematodes, which look like microscopic round worms, can be a problem for Sweet Williams. If you see nematode damage, visit your garden center for treatments.

Sweet William plants are susceptible to fusarium wilt, leaf spot, rust, root rot, gray mold and southern blight.

The yellowing of new growth is an indication of fusarium wilt. The plants are stunted and the leaves will die after turning yellow. It may be necessary to fumigate the soil.

Leaf spot is present when the leaves get yellowish brown withered spots surrounded by a purplish margin. Treatment may involve the use of a fungicide.

In the case of rust, pustules will appear on the underside of the leaves. Avoid watering from above and prune off infected parts of the plant. Treatment with a fungicide may be necessary.

Root rot is especially prevalent in wet conditions and starts by attacking the roots. The disease can also move up the stem. Treatment with a fungicide may be necessary.

Gray mold is one of the more destructive diseases that attach sweet Williams. High humidity provides the moisture that is needed for the spores to germinate and spread. Treatment requires the use of a fungicide.

Southern blight, also called southern wilt, southern stem rot and southern root rot, results from infection by the soil-borne fungus and a fungicide treatment may be necessary.

Interested in learning more about nematodes? Be sure to check this website out.

Want to learn more about Sweet William Flowers?

Additional information about controlling diseases that affect sweet William plants is available at the following websites:

UC Davis Guide to Rust.

UC Davis Guide to Pythium Root Rot.

The UC Davis Guide to Gray Mold.

The UC Davis Guide to Southern Blight.

Do you envy your neighbor’s beautiful flowerbeds, but find that you don’t have the time to do justice to your own garden? Why not consider window boxes that will add color to both the outdoors and indoors?

They are a great means of adding a little bit of nature to your living space. Whether you live in a city apartment building or a country farmhouse, window boxes provide growing areas for your favorite flowers or herbs.

Window boxes can be as simple as mounting flowerpots on a frame that gets fastened to the bottom of the window. They can also be a bit more complex in design. The decision is yours based on how much you want to spend to add a beautiful touch to your home.

Window boxes are made from a variety of materials, including metal, plastic, wood, terra cotta, stone, ceramics and fiberglass. It’s a good idea to choose models made from rot and insect resistant materials. Treated lumber will last a long time outdoors, but you should not plant anything you intend to eat in these chemically treated containers.

Sunshine does take a toll on plastics and fiberglass. These containers are most apt to crack and break because the sunlight breaks them down.

Caution should be taken to insure that the proper mounts are used to attach the boxes to the sills of the windows so that the weight of the boxes is adequately supported.

When buying window boxes, be sure to first measure your window sills to insure that the boxes will fit. Choose ones that you can customize by painting or staining to match the exterior of the building in which you live.

Choose boxes that provide adequate space for plant growth. Boxes that are at least eight inches wide and eight inches deep work well for planting most varieties of flowers.

Planting Window Boxes

There are three basic ways you can plant widow boxes. One is to place plants directly in the window box containers. Another option is to put the flower pots containing the plants in the window box and fill around them using bark, moss or lightweight materials that can withstand the elements outdoors. A third option is buy liners and plant the flowers directly in the liners.

Selecting the right plants is the key to making your window boxes attractive. A mixture of plants that trail and grow upright is a good start. Bulbs and filler plants can be included.

Choose plants that contrast with the building. Pale flowers against dark brick walls make a dazzling display. Bright plants against a light background add a dramatic touch to the building.

Both annuals and perennials can be planted in window boxes. Dianthus, geraniums, impatiens, lobelia, pansies, petunias and sweet alyssum are good annual plant choices. Permanent plants such as varieties of dwarf bulbs, ground ivy, English ivy and miniature roses are good choices if you don’t want to replant every year.

Want to learn more about gardening with window flower boxes?

Interested in directions on how to build your own window box?

Visit this site for general information about window boxes.

And, check out these urban garden ideas.

Perennial plants are favorites with most gardeners because they come back each year in greater glory than the year before. But as perennials grow and spread in your garden, there comes a time when they need to be divided. Most gardeners, particularly those new to the hobby, wonder when is the right time to divide their plants. If it has become obvious that the plants need to be divided, they may wonder which season is best for them to divide the plants. Asking these questions before you attempt to divide your plants is a good idea, particularly because incorrectly dividing your prized plants could end up killing them.

While every plant is different, you can usually tell when to divide your plants based on when they flower. If your plant is one with a spring blossom, you should divide it in the fall. If it blooms in the fall, divide it in the spring. This helps your plant to put all of its energy into growing its roots and leaves after you replant it. If you divide in the spring, make sure you give your plants plenty of time to settle into their new homes before the weather gets extremely hot. On the other hand, if you divide in the fall, your plants need time to anchor into their new locations before the first freeze.

How do you know when to divide your perennials? For most gardeners the answer is that you divide your perennials when they become overcrowded. Some perennials grow much faster than others. For example, asters, irises, daylilies, and chrysanthemums may need to be divided every two or three years. Some perennials, such as peonies and bleeding hearts, may never need division. If your perennials are overcrowding the space you have for them, or if you want to put some or your plants in a new location, go ahead and divide them.

There are some signs your plants will give you when it is time to divide them. If the flowers suddenly start blooming much smaller than normal, this is an indication that your plants do not have enough room to grow. If the foliage on the bottom of the plant is thin and sparse, you need to start thinking about dividing them. Remember, however, not to divide the plants while they are blooming if at all possible.

When you are ready to divide your plants, prepare the plants by watering them thoroughly the day before you are going to divide them. Also, get the area ready for your plant divisions so you can plant them as soon as you divide them. Finally, prepare the plants for division by trimming the leaves at ground level.

Start the division process by removing the parent plant from the ground. Be sure to remove plenty of the soil around the plant to avoid damaging the roots. Once you have the plant out of the ground, use your hose to wash off as much loose soil as you can. This will help you see what type of root system the plant has. Keep in mind that each root system is divided differently.

If you see that your plant has matted roots that do not appear to have a pattern, you have a plant with a spreading root system. You can pull these apart using your hands or a small knife. If the roots are intertwined and thick, use a digging fork to separate them. You should divide each clump into three to five groupings, which you can then replant.

If you find that your plant has a central root clump with several growing points off of the center, you have a clumping root system. Daylilies and hostas are common plants with clumping root systems. To divide these, you will have to cut the crowns of the roots with a sharp knife. Each division needs to have a developing plant attached for the new plant to grow.

Irises are perennials with root systems called rhizomes. These are plants with roots that grow horizontally right at the level of the soil. Dividing rhizomes is quite simple. All you need to do is cut the rhizome in such a way that each cutting has a few inches of the root and at least one leaf fan, which should then be trimmed.

Dahlias are an example of a plant with tuberous roots. Cut these with a knife, making sure that each cutting has a tuber and part of the original stem attached to it. These can be stored for the winter as long as they are kept dry.

What do you do when your root clump is huge and quite tangled? One thing you can do is drop the root clump from a few feet off the ground. This serves to loosen the roots, making it easier for you to pull it apart. Avoid using this process with brittle root masses, as they will break. If this does not work, you may have to use an ax or saw to break the mass apart.

Divisions dry out easily, so you should put them in a pail of water as soon as you divide them. Then when you are done with the entire division process, plant each division. If you are not ready to put them in your garden, plant them in containers so that they can start to root and grow. Remember to cover them with mulch if you are planting them in the fall, because newly divided perennials are susceptible to damage from snow and frost.

Poinsettia Locations

Poinsettias are tropical plants, and aren’t at all cold-hardy, but can survive quite well year-round outdoors in southern climates or just for the summer in colder regions. They are best suited to USDA zones 9 to 11. Plant outdoors after the last frost danger is past, and choose a spot where the plant will get plenty of morning sun, but has light or partial shade in the hot afternoon.

With poinsettias, you must balance its needs between water and sun. They like soil that is somewhat cool and evenly moist, so the partial shade is best. However, it’s not a wetland plant, so don’t pick a spot where water will stand or puddle. The soil should be well-drained and rich.

Poinsettia Care

Mulch around the base of poinsettias outdoors, to help retain soil moisture and keep the soil cool. Fertilize once a month with liquid fertilizer if your soil is not very rich with organic matter. If you do have rich soil, you probably won’t need to fertilize more than once; do this at the start of the spring growing season.

Water when the soil at the base of the plant is dry to the touch. In the late fall or early winter, cut back old growth on the plants to encourage stronger new growth in the spring. If you want more flowers, pinch off terminal shoots occasionally through the spring and early summer.

Poinsettia Flowering

Getting poinsettias to turn their signature red holiday color is difficult. This requires them to be in total darkness for 14 to 16 hours a day. The recommended time frame for this is from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., when temperatures are cooler. The ideal nighttime temperature for flowering is between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and temperatures warmer than 70 degrees can instead cause decay.

This will mean you will have had to bring them indoors in the fall, and the darkness should be imposed around October 1, to make them flower in December. A closet without a heating vent is a good location to keep them in darkness, perhaps with black plastic or opaque fabric coverings. Bring them out into sunlight for at least six hours during the day.

Poinsettia Propagation

Poinsettias are usually propagated by cuttings. Take 8-inch cuttings from the tips of poinsettia stems in the summer, and dip them in rooting hormone such as that available for rose cuttings. Alternately, an easier method is to take woody stem cuttings, about 18 inches, place in rich soil, and keep moist, but not wet, for several weeks.

Do this early enough in the summer that you don’t risk frost damage to the young cuttings, or bring them inside if this is done late in the year. They are fast-growing; the standard pot-size poinsettias sold in stores around Christmas are forcibly small, and will grow many feet tall when planted outdoors.

Poinsettia Pests and Diseases>

Poinsettias are susceptible to root knot, but this can be avoided by proper mulching and watering. They also are bothered by bacterial or greasy canker, both caused by conditions that are too warm and moist. Rot at crown, collar or root also will emerge in wet, warm conditions.

If the plant is too cold and too moist, you may risk gray mold on the soil and stem of the poinsettia, which can be avoided by proper temperatures and good air circulation. Mildew and stem rot can happen when the plant becomes overcrowded with foliage and stems; avoid this by regular pruning.

Want to learn more about poinsettias?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject:

The University of Illinois Urban Extension has FAQ on poinsettias.

Poinsettia history and care in Southern gardens from Florida.

The Center for Integrated Pest Management from the University of California details signs and treatments for many poinsettia problems.

Photo found on Flickr, courtesy of emmamccleary.

Hanging baskets are infectious. Whether it’s the burst of color against an otherwise drab looking space, or the incongruity of flowers positioned in the air, hanging baskets always evoke a good feeling. No matter where it’s placed, a hanging basket manages to immediately brighten its surroundings and transform any area.

Hanging baskets are also versatile and as well as enhancing a sunny wall can be used to add interest to porches and conservatories. And you don’t have to plant only flowers in your hanging basket; an indoor basket next to a window can provide fresh herbs all year round. Below are some tips on how to get perfect hanging baskets this season.

Flowers

When planting your hanging basket, always ensure the young plants and seedlings are at the right stage: they should be sturdy, well-rooted, and ready for transplantation. If you’re using a wire mesh basket you will need to line it to prevent the soil from falling out.

There are a number of liners available on the market nowadays to choose from; however, moss makes an excellent liner as it provides good drainage and high humidity, both of which are important for helping your plants grow. You will have to water your baskets more often if you use moss, though.

And while you may find artificial liners easier to use, don’t forget that you’ll have to make holes in them in order to position your plants in the basket.

The plastic pot type containers can only be planted from the top, and while this type of container is easy to use, it doesn’t allow you to position your plants around the circumference of the basket to give a full, luxurious effect. This can result in more container than plant showing, which can look unattractive.

When using a wire mesh basket and moss, line the bottom with a layer of moss about an inch thick and build up this layer until it’s halfway up the circumference of the basket. Then fill the center of the basket with moist, free draining, soil-free potting mix, preferably one that’s been specially prepared for hanging baskets.

Position the first layer of plants by carefully pushing the root ball and leaves through the wire mesh into the potting mix, leaving the plants’ foliage falling through the gaps in the basket. Pack plenty of moss around the plants and fill in the center of the basket with potting mix, gently firming around the root balls. Finish off the top with a layer of moss to improve the look of the basket and to help conserve water.

To get the best effect from your hanging basket, put plenty of plants in it. A good rule of thumb is to place one plant per inch of basket diameter which means that you’ll need 12 plants for a 12-inch basket. This number of plants will ensure that your hanging basket is a flurry of color and interest during the season and that little, if any, of the basket shows.

Once planted, give your hanging basket a very good watering with a watering-can equipped with a rose head to settle the potting mix around the root balls. Then place it in a shady, sheltered spot, bringing it indoors each evening until the plants are well established and all risk of frost has passed.

Unless you’ve used shade loving plants in your basket, position it so that it’s in the sun for most of the day. Keep the potting mix moist, but not water-logged, by watering frequently, usually at least once a day during hot weather.

Clip off faded flower heads regularly to ensure continued growth. From June onwards, it’s best to feed with a good liquid fertilizer once a week. A monthly feed of a high nitrogen plant food will prevent the foliage yellowing.

Herbs and Vegetables

Baskets of herbs and vegetables need a little more attention than flower baskets but they can be productive as well as attractive so it’s worth devoting a little more time to them. Baskets must never be allowed to dry out so it’s best to line a basket with polyethylene. Basil, sage, thyme, marjoram, and chives are suitable herbs for growing in a basket.

Vegetables need a little more space than bedding plants: tomatoes and peppers should be planted three to a 14-inch basket, while you should plant one cucumber per basket.

Grow in a sheltered spot and feed weekly with a high nitrogen plant food.

Jane Darragh is a freelance writer who writes about all aspects of “thrifty living,” including gardening and green issues. She enjoys cycling, swimming, and exploring her new homeland of western Canada (although not necessarily by bike!).